rgb led car dash, and door lighting
These LED light bars have become quite easy and cheap and people still find a lot of interesting places for them.
There are many kinds of LED light bars, but the more common ones are RGB 5 m light bars with infrared remote control, the controller runs on 12 v, and the LED is usually a public anode.
The red, green and blue LEDs require 4 wires, 12 v and 3 ground connections.
Usually in the car, this is an ideal setting because the car has a large 12 v battery and usually the wires are switched (
Turn on the lights or power the equipment).
My car turned the door light to the ground, which was the opposite of what I needed.
In order for the door light to light up when the door is open, I have to turn on 12 v and the LED controller will sink to the ground.
I need 3 switches due to switch to ground (
One in red, one in green, one in blue).
This is just not practical.
There is another way to solve this problem, that is, reverse polarity, in cars, it is more common to use relays to do this kind of thing, but in electronics, we like to do this with mosfet, I have something that is not suitable for another use, but this is perfect.
I took off the dashboard cover and connected my meter to the switch and when it was turned on I found that the drive light came from 12 v.
Since it was very close to my dashboard, I knocked there.
I have the controller installed under the dashboard and it can be changed easily or change the lights using the remote control.
The controller is always 12 v, but the dashboard will only be 12 v if the light is on, and the door will only open if each door is opened.
I also want to connect the top lights, but wiring is more troublesome than I want to deal.
There are several components in this document, this part is an overview, the next part will be the building controller, installing lights on the dashboard, making wire and cable, building door lights, setting up a reverse circuit for door light switches, install the LEDs under the door, maybe a little more overview.
The controller is a cheap rgb led controller, I actually broke some of them when setting it up, well, they are pretty cheap now.
The first one I used was the one that had a small white box and I welded the wires directly to it for power and output.
I ended up changing it to a smaller style without a box and I just made a connector for it instead of welding the wire directly to it.
These pictures should be the basic idea of how the electronics work, you can connect it in any way you like, use fancy connectors, or be creative, make it yourself, or just weld things together, regardless of the effect.
There are many controllers and LED light strips to choose from, and any of them will be an improvement, so do whatever you like.
If you use the IR remote as I do, then you have to keep the receiver\'s view and not bury it under the dashboard or glove box.
You can also make a controller with some mosfet, resistor and arduino, there are many examples to build your own LED belt controller.
I could have done that, but I prefer the ready-made stuff for the remote.
The controller should be wired so that it always has electricity and is always running and the lights will only turn on if you want, but the controller is always running.
It is very basic and simple and I will not provide a schematic diagram.
This part is a bit scary for most people, going out is a bit scary and no one wants to break their car.
My car is 30 years old and it has an extra problem, that is simply plastic and it could break down if you look at it funny.
I had to redo my few times.
I thought a small strip on the inside of the transparent dashboard cover would work, but it lights up the entire display, making it more difficult to look at the meter.
What you need is the LEDs inside the meter with a flat black cover that only lights up the meter, not the entire display.
I ended up breaking the plastic wrap around the top of the display and it took me a while trying to find a replacement and managed to re-patch it together with bondo and plumber tape.
I suggest you be very careful with the dashboard parts, especially if they are made of old plastic.
I took the hood off and this exposes the button and I can turn on the switch that runs the lights and the dashboard lights should turn on when they are on.
I made a small 3 wire cable and ran it to the controller and for positive I ran it to the switch.
I made a small connector and hung it on the LEDs.
It is a circuit that is simple enough, as you would expect, 4 lines, 3 to the controller R, G, B output, and 1 to the switch.
I take the dashboard off and take it apart to reveal the area of the internal meter and place the non-waterproof led (
They do not need to be waterproof on the dashboard, they are more flexible and easy to install without being waterproof. )
To install LEDs on the dashboard, you can lay them out the way you want them, cut the length, place basic bends and form it to fit the area you want.
Then pull it out, back the sticky part, and gently place it where you want it.
It was sealed and everything was clean so I didn\'t have the surfaces ready and just stuck them in place.
I think I added some super glue to the corner and helped keep it in place even if it became warm and soft.
It is important here that the LEDs remain in place and you can put your 4 wires outside after sealing.
I put a connector on my connector so I can unplug it and get rid of the dashboard.
I put all the bulbs in and my car has a dimmer so I can dim the inventory bulbs if I want to, anyway most of them burn out.
I could have installed each bulb with an RGB LED and connected them, but sticking strips around the meter is equally effective and easier than using each bulb.
I should probably replace the indicator light with a white LEDs because the bulb is faulty and the LEDs last for a long time.
There are a few things you should remember when you are fiddling with your dashboard.
The area inside the clear plastic is usually air tight, clean and dust-free.
Try to prevent dust from entering when you are working on the dashboard, do not touch the internal area, otherwise you will leave a fingerprint or need to clean, if you try to clean it, you will leave dust, then stuck in it, it looks bad.
The easy way is to prevent it from getting dirty by neatness and minimizing the time to open.
In other words, work in a clean place, don\'t turn it on and turn it off before you\'re ready to finish the task.
This also means being careful when you\'re working, and don\'t rush in and out with fuss.
If you have a needle gauge, just like my car has a needle gauge, you should be careful not to bump, otherwise they will see the wrong position, I should take a photo before and after, just to make sure everything is in the right place.
With the regular LED light strip, you can insert a light strip into a controller, but I will use the LED in many places, all connected to one controller.
Up to 5 m can be controlled by one controller (nearly 17 feet)
A total of 300 RGB LEDs.
Some strips and controllers will do more and some will be less, but 300/5 seems to be the most common.
The dashboard is used a few feet and the door light is used a few inches each, leaving a bunch of LEDs that can be placed where you like, as long as you keep the LEDs still and connect the four wires.
I put the LEDs under the door because when I get off the bus I want to be able to see the ground and make it the same color as the dashboard, or other LEDs are fine.
I like that my color loops slowly, not just one color, it\'s too hard to pick the favorite color.
Running led in door light (
Factory door lights and under-door lights)
Need to run 4 wires all the way to the inside of the door.
You don\'t need very thick wires because it doesn\'t provide much current even if you run 50 wires under the door.
It would be better if the wires were tied in the sheath, such as a phone or Ethernet cable, if they had many small conductors in one cable.
I chose to use Ethernet because it was my convenience on the length I needed.
The problem with most Ethernet cables is that they are solid wires and the insulation shrinks a lot (
It is designed for curling, not welding. )
It would be better if you could do it better with the curl connector, but I prefer welding.
The cable has to reach the far end of each door, which means that you need quite long wires, or at least two and a half long wires are connected together in the middle, hoping to be near the controller.
I made the connector with cheap SIP pins/sockets, but you can weld everything together as you like, even without the connector.
The number of wires for the Ethernet cable is twice what you need, and if you want to be novel, you can use another different set of controllers, or, you can use the second set as a repair backup, or double the line in case you want to use more led.
My door light has a switch that connects to the ground when turned on, and in order to do the job with common anode wiring I either need 3 door switches (
One copy of red, green and blue)
, Or I need to have it switch 12 v to LEDs when grounded.
You usually see relays do this for cars, but for LEDs it\'s usually a MOSFET.
This means that the wiring is a bit tricky, and in order to make things more stable, you need to install a resistor on the MOSFET, which is called the pull-up resistor, which ensures that it is always turned off, unless we want to turn it on by connecting it to the ground.
The MOSFET is a transistor, in the scope of this discussion, basically what the transistor is doing, is it using a little bit of electricity to convert a lot of electricity? This is exactly what the relay does, and only the transistor has polarity (like a diode).
The polarity of the transistor is important, you need a PNP/or N type transistor if you need to switch to ground, if you want to switch the DC voltage then you need a PNP, or a P type transistor
The way the transistor works, you send a little voltage if you want to switch to ground, and if you want to switch the voltage, you need to connect to ground, which is what I call polarity reversal.
When the door switch connects the ground to the transistor, the transistor will connect 12 v (
Connector from door light)
LED light bar.
Usually, you use BJT for a small amount of current (
Transistor, you use MOSFET for higher current (
Field Effect Transistor of metal oxide semiconductor).
If I was just doing a door light, not a door down light, the BJT transistor would probably be fine, but for the sake of safety I was using a high current MOSFET because I used a considerable number of LEDs, I don\'t want to break through the limits of transistors.
You should check how your door works before you go to make this circuit, if your car switch is 12 v then you don\'t need this circuit at all, just connect the 12 v to the LED strip public anode lead.
At the end of this document, I included a few pictures of the appearance of this circuit.
I want to replace the normal bulb in the door with RGB LEDs.
It turned out to be a big job for a little bit of light, but it looks really good.
I had to build a custom light fixture to replace the white bulb because I wanted RGB LEDs.
I use SMT LEDs because they are small, thin and easy to fit inside the fixture.
First of all, I made a circuit board small enough to fit in the fixture, and the board large enough to emit the maximum light.
I managed to get 3 LED segments (
These strips use at least 3 LEDs when working at 12 v. ).
In retrospect, 2 may be better due to some overlap and shorting caused by 3.
I spent too much time fiddling with these little lights mainly because I tried to install as much as I could, but it turned out that 6 LEDs would be fine.
One trick I use to make these things is if the insulation deviates from the end, peel a large piece, then measure where I want to weld, then cut off the insulation, slide the insulation, make a bare spot for welding.
This makes the wire a single wire, not a few small ones, which makes it easier to weld.
These LEDs are a bit like the LEDs you used to see on the car, but they only work when you open the door.
They look cool, but they are also practical and they do a great job of lighting up the ground so you can see where you are when you get off the bus.
You can add more LEDs, not just under the door, it\'s also a good addition to placing some LEDs above the footer or under the seat.
I originally planned to add some to the dome light, but after connecting the cable to the door, I decided that the dome light would work harder than I would like to do, but for more LEDs, the dome light is also a good place.
Some other good places that might be led are the trunk/hatch under the hood or engine compartment.
I didn\'t do that, but I \'ve also considered placing LEDs between the body panels to illuminate all the panel gaps, as well as around the wheel holes and brakes, though, if you\'re driving, these may be tickets for you.
As the cable extends to the door light, the MOSFET circuit is in place, all you need to do to add the under-door light is to run 4 wires from the under-door light to the under-door side.
My car has a hole with rubber plugs, but you can drill a hole between the inner panel and the door or run the wires out.
You can put a grommet in the hole, and when you pass the wire through, put an RTV in The grommet to make it waterproof again.
You can install the connector on the led and on the wire, but it has to go through the hole in the door, I don\'t want it, I choose to weld my electrode directly to the wire.
After I connected things up, I tested the lights to make sure everything was OK and then cleaned up the flux and solder.
After the thing was welded clean, I put a little tape on the car as an insulation and cleaned the lower side of the door with soap and water and green itchy pads.
I then removed the backing from the LED light strip and ran along the bottom of the door and pressed it tightly.
About every 6 inch or so, I added a few drops of strong glue to the edge to help secure the tape in place (
Because when it warms, the tape softens and may not be able to withstand the heat of summer).
Everything is OK, the led is permanently fixed, I carefully put the extra wires back on the door and put the rubber plug back (
It\'s not easy but it\'s gone)
And then add some tape to cover the wires.
The last thing is to put the door card back and put both the handle and the rest of the door parts in.
When you are dealing with electronics, you obviously want to turn them off, and the easiest way is to unplug the battery or the LED controller.
Now that things are over, you can hook it up and enjoy the bike sport of any color or color you want.
If I do this again, I will only put 6 LEDs in each door light.
There are a lot of problems caused by trying to get 9 LEDs, which is unnecessary difficulty.
There are many ways you can do this, but the difference is.
One of the more awesome ways is to use a separate addressable led and micro-controller (arduino, . . . )
Let LEDs do something more interesting.
You can ride a rainbow-colored bike on the door light, or roll something of the marque type, or many other types of animations.
You can program the lights around each meter separately, and if your micro-controller is connected to various sensors of your car, you can make your temperature meter blue when it is cold, when you reach the red line in the heat, you can make your tachometer flash red, and if you go too slowly or too fast, you can make your speedometer flash (
GPS module may need to be added to monitor speed and location)
, Or how about the sequential turn signal indication in the dashboard?
You can build many good features in custom dashboard lighting.
It may be a better way for a car to use a relay instead of a MOSFET, as an unexpected short circuit can damage the MOSFET immediately, but the relay is more robust and durable.
I did have a problem and I went through a few transistors when one of the door lights had a problem.
I also broke some controllers as shorts and accidentally put the connector in the right position, there are a lot of ways to break things if you are not careful, even if you are careful, it\'s also easy to make mistakes.
Most LED lighting products seem to be 12 v, which means there are a lot of easy-to-install options for the car.
There are many kinds of LED light bars, and the ones I use here may be the most common type, but you can also apply it to other types of LED.
Another common voltage is 5 v, especially the voltage that can be addressed separately.
One way to make these easy is to use DC-
The DC step-down converter reduces 12 v to 5 v.